tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-67572619937034760742024-03-14T03:04:00.995-07:00Artifexvik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-35768995403923436892019-04-06T16:14:00.002-07:002019-04-06T16:15:10.909-07:00Quiet in here, isn't it?I've had a few problems with my health and the well-being of a number of family members, so things have gone quiet here. If you fancy a video update go look at the <a href="https://youtu.be/N-b07YvMSfU" target="_blank">Geeko Farm update</a>.<br />
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Hopefully I'm getting it together again, and more cunning creations will make it online.vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-78815641058173557262016-11-15T13:51:00.003-08:002016-11-15T13:51:57.795-08:00Resmed CPAP/APAP mask connector fixI'm an obstructive sleep apnoea sufferer and like many people I have to sleep with a pressurised mask on. Not just to stop me snoring, but to stop me suffocating. Works well, highly recommended.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZ1HirEMjOSIIPZl-ElcNhyphenhyphenpSP7-zuYrV6slFYPqanQNe3h9PwAJ3bIvnds8ro7Bj8iod5wl9E3SExUiTFjZCIYFEOe4UOk9iqTdqqq2nc0-tfOPj_xpykkfmsGe61vBw6GeZqCH0ZSxzu39a/s1600/IMAG0919.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZ1HirEMjOSIIPZl-ElcNhyphenhyphenpSP7-zuYrV6slFYPqanQNe3h9PwAJ3bIvnds8ro7Bj8iod5wl9E3SExUiTFjZCIYFEOe4UOk9iqTdqqq2nc0-tfOPj_xpykkfmsGe61vBw6GeZqCH0ZSxzu39a/s200/IMAG0919.jpg" width="200" /></a>However, there is a common fault with "<a href="http://www.resmed.com/us/en/consumer/products/masks.html" target="_blank">Mirage</a>" ResMed CPAP mask connectors. They are made in a split mould, and the retaining clip on the front of the connector invariably splits along the join. These puppies cost US$25 a piece to replace. We can do better than that.<br />
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So take the connector off and get yourself a $2 roll of <a href="http://www.dx.com/p/50mm-high-temperature-heat-resistant-kapton-adhesive-tape-tawny-432597" target="_blank">polyamide ("Kapton") high-temperature tape</a>. It has to be this type - the stuff has no stretch, and we need that feature.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5hE6-QG8uGwcWJfNz3yFwam0mhrz7GjqGsezjgot3rM6Rebf01DxOy7NM85_3JBLShM6IBOS96xJAvSQHWwXgzWXESXBcJi87d86NgSDtyOwdbsCMD32esJH6uejC1zEfjEOekCUpQM0th65x/s1600/IMAG0921.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5hE6-QG8uGwcWJfNz3yFwam0mhrz7GjqGsezjgot3rM6Rebf01DxOy7NM85_3JBLShM6IBOS96xJAvSQHWwXgzWXESXBcJi87d86NgSDtyOwdbsCMD32esJH6uejC1zEfjEOekCUpQM0th65x/s200/IMAG0921.jpg" width="200" /></a>Keeping the tape edge level with the interior rim of the clip, go round your connector twice. Tough though the tape is, the adhesive is not great.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYSA6hAWgmm2a4RsWrUxsVFlZxlzb3W3YzpTLrGszp5kYz2I1-fUoZkNEjASKGvp44eZDMpjrhQ5L84hI5lHQMFFTRM3Ttx-yumtwL17_IpfUY2UsCmoCqCDS038lhjeX_pgiOlqlkqjQjT37H/s1600/IMAG0922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYSA6hAWgmm2a4RsWrUxsVFlZxlzb3W3YzpTLrGszp5kYz2I1-fUoZkNEjASKGvp44eZDMpjrhQ5L84hI5lHQMFFTRM3Ttx-yumtwL17_IpfUY2UsCmoCqCDS038lhjeX_pgiOlqlkqjQjT37H/s200/IMAG0922.jpg" width="200" /></a>Use a craft knife or scalpel to carefully trim the tape flush with the outside edge of the clip. Do this smoothly as you can't pull straggly edges off of this stuff - it's too damn strong.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaIkOCrtgr4gwDiF9WvHoTRysjgTCSeuCS057s809PwuV58_mjGPLiQvVdlQjn6Ng74-FNsO93_Wsn_-YnBpl6eE2GCGvWbUHXF1u9X_mn122qB5E4lqZevhwIcUPSE8nba9BX96UWMZ3hCZTW/s1600/IMAG0923.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaIkOCrtgr4gwDiF9WvHoTRysjgTCSeuCS057s809PwuV58_mjGPLiQvVdlQjn6Ng74-FNsO93_Wsn_-YnBpl6eE2GCGvWbUHXF1u9X_mn122qB5E4lqZevhwIcUPSE8nba9BX96UWMZ3hCZTW/s320/IMAG0923.jpg" width="320" /></a>Smooth it down with your fingers and it'll be done. The repair should last at least a couple of months - longer in my experience than a genuine replacement part.<br />
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Hope this saves people a few bucks, or at least gives them an emergency repair option.vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-79813639796518574502015-06-02T23:46:00.001-07:002015-06-02T23:46:48.136-07:00Opening a Wordlock Combination LockI found myself in the situation of having to use an old Wordlock combination lock to secure a trailer overnight. We abandoned it because it was too awkward to use - particularly in poor lighting conditions - but needs must. One problem: Forgot the code. Needed to recover it.<br />
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It's a 4-letter lock, with 10 positions per letter wheel. A quick trawl with the Linux dictionary revealed over 500 possible dictionary words, though I was fairly sure we didn't use one. So how to crack it? With one illuminated magnifying visor and a biro.<br />
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Take each wheel in turn, and push it to the left as shown, using the point of the biro. Using the magnifying visor, look deep into the little gap you're making on the right side of the letter. In one position, and one position only, you will see a ridge on the shaft that the letter rotates around. This indicates the letter you want. It really is that simple. Do all 4 wheels in any order, push, pull, open sesame! <b class="fullname js-action-profile-name show-popup-with-id">Ⓥ</b><br />vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-25419307482513610442014-08-16T17:09:00.002-07:002014-08-16T21:08:28.681-07:00How we make large hydroponics runsFor want of a better place to document the process, here's how we make our hydroponics runs. We make them in 2 sizes; this is the 150mm x 100mm version, using a 3m length of PVC rectangular downpipe. The ends must be cut off square and smooth so the endcaps fit.<br />
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The downpipe is marked off starting 70mm in from one end every 230mm with the seam (if there is one in the downpipe) uppermost. A mark is also made on the underside corresponding to the first 70mm mark. This is for the drainage hole underneath and an inspection hole on the top.<br />
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The drain hole is drilled out to suit whatever type of drainage bung you're using at the time (sometimes I drill these later), the inspection hole is drilled to 45mm, and the plant pot holes to 82mm. We find that is what we need to get a so-called 3 inch pot into. To do this we use a small drill press and hole saw.<br />
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Now, as a surprising amount of hot crap gets flung around by the drill at this point, even I can be persuaded of the benefits of wearing safety glasses and tying my hair back. Check the fit of a pot after drilling the first hole, just to make sure you're not about to wreck a fortune in downpipe.<br />
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Once the holes are drilled, take off any wiry edges with a de-burring tool, rasp or whatever so the pots fit in neatly and the gardener won't cut themselves. Then clean all the bits of crap out of the downpipe. A shop compressed air line is handy there!<br />
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The downpipe now looks like a real hydroponics trough. The endcaps and trough ends are then cleaned with isopropyl alcohol or meths, and a continuous fillet of silicone sealant is squirted into the inside edging of the endcap. The endcap is then thwacked on with a mallet and allowed to cure. I'm using shop-bought ones here, but we often 3D print our own http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16599 .<br />
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When the troughs are mounted, I drill a hole at the high end to match the inlet pipe I'm using. This is left until later so the hole goes in the most convenient place :) Then of course we need to plumb them in, but that's another story. <b class="fullname js-action-profile-name show-popup-with-id">Ⓥ</b><br />
<br />vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-27882065283441831712014-04-12T18:43:00.001-07:002014-04-12T18:43:05.233-07:00Micro-tinderboxI like to have a reliable way of lighting a fire on me at all times. The most durable firelighting system is a ferrocerium rod, but these tend to be a bit large and don't hide well from Australian airport insecurity staff. So I invented my micro-tinderbox, that is extremely lightweight, works after a thorough soaking and drying, and strikes on a TSA-approved blunt nailfile or the file on your multi-tool.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTvr686ZXnvgD41RwjkfadmThgDyCDEbEWXcYEk15yC5QZHSDwDi8BXHzNRrRrpJxRNwWdaAkUUgaTz2Viu4JWJ7M-0aGQzbvhEhxaNam4AwR94tmtbFzCgmmeD6vtwjklGoByskpj_EjzYNOJ/s1600/microtinderbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTvr686ZXnvgD41RwjkfadmThgDyCDEbEWXcYEk15yC5QZHSDwDi8BXHzNRrRrpJxRNwWdaAkUUgaTz2Viu4JWJ7M-0aGQzbvhEhxaNam4AwR94tmtbFzCgmmeD6vtwjklGoByskpj_EjzYNOJ/s1600/microtinderbox.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Take a 3mm ring crimp terminal and shave off the insulation. Widen the wire inlet with a spike until you can fit a lighter flint into the hole. Then crimp really, really tight. There's the world's smallest <a href="http://www.practicalsurvivor.com/firestartingtools" target="_blank">ferrocerium rod</a>!<br />
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To catch the spark, make a wad of <a href="http://www.practicalsurvivor.com/charcloth" target="_blank">charcloth</a>, which you hold next to the flint when striking. Put the whole lot in a little baggie - with a spare flint - and hide it away for a firelighting emergency. <strong class="fullname js-action-profile-name show-popup-with-id"> Ⓥ</strong><small class="time"><span class="_timestamp js-short-timestamp js-relative-timestamp" data-long-form="true" data-time-ms="1397350781000" data-time="1397350781"></span>
</small>vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-6948186078305007672014-01-31T19:22:00.001-08:002014-01-31T19:40:53.541-08:00Homemade Fogging FumigatorLooper caterpillars invaded our tomatoes. This is an act of war, and so I needed a way to disperse toxic dust particles (Derris Dust) amongst the plants in a thorough and pervasive manner - though I should imagine the same technique could be used to fog with any dry powder. It certainly beats heck out of the little pepperpot holes on the end of the derris tub. Here's a shot of it being tested; it's more impressive when a lot of powder is used and great billowing clouds come out.<br />
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We have an air compressor system in the workshop, so I dragged an air hose outside to provide the puff at 80 psi. On the end of the hose went the air gun fitted with a ball inflator needle. That pokes into a piece of plastic tube on a 13mm (1/2 inch in old money) barbed T joiner from my hydroponics plumbing box. Into the upright of the T goes a piece of 6mm i/d stiff PVC pipe, wrapped with tape to fit. This only goes half way up the T. Blasting air through the needle causes entrapped air to be sucked up the 6mm tubing and blown out of the open end of the T, together with any dust it may have sucked up. Cool, eh?<br />
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Derris dust is organic, but so is hemlock so only use it when no cold-blooded things you want to see alive are around, mask up, and don't muck about with it. Testing of the fogger was done with plain flour.vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-77268915892651112072014-01-18T16:15:00.000-08:002014-01-18T16:21:48.066-08:00Recycled raised planter frameSuz said she wanted a big planter, raised off the ground so she could tend it easily. We have no actual dirt except for a small strip under the factory security fence which we've already planted with hundreds of peas and beans. So she needed a large planter to grow crops that don't like hydroponics.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF-V_22qZmWaOaFiGM5pyAYMkFuod6s2lzk1BKik7VQYe4x5cK-VwvbINPzGRqcsch4XIFpNiinZwWqrHsM_Y-WvYxJG371vW8MNqGOfo_AsMTeqAE-bU9ec_EsZ46QTsfMHJmfHbI8TqTA_BM/s1600/2014-01-18+16.53.47.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF-V_22qZmWaOaFiGM5pyAYMkFuod6s2lzk1BKik7VQYe4x5cK-VwvbINPzGRqcsch4XIFpNiinZwWqrHsM_Y-WvYxJG371vW8MNqGOfo_AsMTeqAE-bU9ec_EsZ46QTsfMHJmfHbI8TqTA_BM/s1600/2014-01-18+16.53.47.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The planter, part-filled with tubs.</td></tr>
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I scavenged 8 x 20l polythene cooking oil containers (couldn't find the lids, buggerit) and hacked the tops off with a skillsaw. A couple of 10mm holes 50mm up from the bottom provide drainage, and a load of river pebbles hold a reservoir of water at the bottom of the container below the drains. The rest gets filled with potting mix. Planting tub x 8; 150 litres of soil where none stood before.<br />
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OK, so now we have a large plantable area, but it's not raised up off the ground. So I dismantled a couple of palettes and with the 2x4 from them and a length of preserved 2x4 from a previous project, built basically a bed frame. Suz didn't like the yellow colour of the tubs, so the frame is enclosed with scavenged timber. The bottom is slats, allowing drainage, which would have been hard to arrange without using the tubs.<br />
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The tubs also allow herbs with wandering roots to be kept separated, and things to be moved around individually if needed. I'll try to score some more identical tubs as backups.<br />
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As you can see, it needs a bit of wood preservative, but otherwise looks fairly functional. Another recycled success story!<br />
<br />vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-85863123278183320122013-12-29T20:31:00.001-08:002013-12-29T21:52:08.962-08:00Hydroponics UpgradeWe've rebuilt the hydroponics system using a 75 litre nutrient tank and a 100W pump on a timer. The runs are a mix of sizes, held in place by a framework constructed from recycled palettes. Tip: When designing a hydroponic system, start with the tank, then design the drains as that'll tell you where everything has to go.<br />
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This is what it looks like after a month or so of serious growing:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3j7MpFUHPZGUqm-bj2wkxZbPK9bKYuONjP8Vc_sXWlw09pZL-QboRqIz7LYDZnhcXAcg-VtEh9SV2gjYn724jJwBvUNANdrExEt3TZC9pBu7VUMm8E5puZa0nMpdXMXyjc24EX95l28D-GoyZ/s1600/2013-12-30+17.11.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3j7MpFUHPZGUqm-bj2wkxZbPK9bKYuONjP8Vc_sXWlw09pZL-QboRqIz7LYDZnhcXAcg-VtEh9SV2gjYn724jJwBvUNANdrExEt3TZC9pBu7VUMm8E5puZa0nMpdXMXyjc24EX95l28D-GoyZ/s320/2013-12-30+17.11.58.jpg" width="320" /> </a> </div>
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As you can see, or not, the tank is hidden under the foliage on a palette. A block of three new runs stands behind the enveloped one, and the bare framework for our 3rd block - which will have 3 metre rather than 2.5 metre runs - stands on the concrete in the distance.</div>
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The runs are made from a mix of 50mmx100mm and 75mmx150mm rectangular section drainpipe. Some of our runs are over a decade old and have been restructured many times. We drill holes every 200mm-ish, depending on the intended crop and the size of the little pots. Pots are filled with either clay beads or vermiculite.</div>
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We used to get the endpieces from Switched On Gardener and the plumbing from Mitre 10, but we now print our own pots, drains and endpieces using a <a href="http://diamondmind.co.nz/" target="_blank">DiamondMind V2 3D Printer</a> from <a href="http://diamondage.co.nz/" target="_blank">Diamond Age PLA filament</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuL4LigB_X-ri2kOAO0lK7FSJxmN7dradrXLE0DQfkfjZxAiQD1fBRLMx6UK7j7benSyqkdg_YzVDfdXXLbOEMkF-IXc2ctYVNiSG_uLcphGtJ2vdKxabrv3DmqNzRhUvt4L6No1ZZAUeRDkPq/s1600/2013-12-30+16.32.30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuL4LigB_X-ri2kOAO0lK7FSJxmN7dradrXLE0DQfkfjZxAiQD1fBRLMx6UK7j7benSyqkdg_YzVDfdXXLbOEMkF-IXc2ctYVNiSG_uLcphGtJ2vdKxabrv3DmqNzRhUvt4L6No1ZZAUeRDkPq/s320/2013-12-30+16.32.30.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The endpiece <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16599">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16599</a> has slots in in which you fill with bathroom silicone sealant and smack on to the end of the tube.<br />
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You can just see the purple 13mm barb fitting on the bottom of the drain sticking out the bottom <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:210983">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:210983</a> with the yellow nut holding it in place. This gets a bead of silicone round it as a gasket before assembly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGQzCrequTdEhyqf4sXWlYBW6AzONkNJex1EKHEmCBiTM81ShqDdQ8NG56_ueZEC5tisKkxI_YuDv3f1YlKOowHv-SsRof1ZREiLCMTjEaw7iuvvGKMssun3il5QyZMUKPCn05nCxoP2xL7gP0/s1600/2013-12-30+16.33.04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGQzCrequTdEhyqf4sXWlYBW6AzONkNJex1EKHEmCBiTM81ShqDdQ8NG56_ueZEC5tisKkxI_YuDv3f1YlKOowHv-SsRof1ZREiLCMTjEaw7iuvvGKMssun3il5QyZMUKPCn05nCxoP2xL7gP0/s320/2013-12-30+16.33.04.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The hydroponic pots <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16847">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16847</a> are then filled and loaded into the holes in the run. The yellow thing on top is a hydroponic plug <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5965">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5965</a> that is used to cover the inspection hole above the drain so that algae do not grow inside the trough.<br />
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Once the silicone has set up, that run will go in the new framework and we can plant another 14 little weed-free wonders to feed us in the Autumn and Winter.vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-86086061870282922742013-07-02T00:10:00.000-07:002013-07-02T00:10:09.025-07:00This One Really SucksWe're getting a 1.2m x 1.2m CNC, probably by early next week. In preparation I have assembled a dust extractor. It has a 2kW motor and more suck than the NSA.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUomiPKm8XMURnikSk8-hL88xxdRRduPPdWoe1OaO0285Pg147aXG08AVc5fxLX_oKxst4MkYN0lN99i8HdxX_aWNKdI4tO6ZdSsmVsGBFDgWFffdtPVFL5zXnCLPooWkVpAIbIlJ_zdwKomrT/s1600/2013-07-01+18.53.24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUomiPKm8XMURnikSk8-hL88xxdRRduPPdWoe1OaO0285Pg147aXG08AVc5fxLX_oKxst4MkYN0lN99i8HdxX_aWNKdI4tO6ZdSsmVsGBFDgWFffdtPVFL5zXnCLPooWkVpAIbIlJ_zdwKomrT/s320/2013-07-01+18.53.24.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I did intend to experiment with it in the following configuration as a jet cart, but the womenfolk did not agree...
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6iH_s0qOXGyrNIXMG5ru9JWoN_wdMvpDWeskt1bQcLqL3K3OQeFXweF1Puepr2sra3hnbh_Q7mg8tBhSCd5uUUaDMCINAM8wtnBvKOskI99TYX7bg3XSCZtPNcYiu8EP4MDaPhZpxajEJoEG/s1600/2013-07-01+16.54.25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6iH_s0qOXGyrNIXMG5ru9JWoN_wdMvpDWeskt1bQcLqL3K3OQeFXweF1Puepr2sra3hnbh_Q7mg8tBhSCd5uUUaDMCINAM8wtnBvKOskI99TYX7bg3XSCZtPNcYiu8EP4MDaPhZpxajEJoEG/s320/2013-07-01+16.54.25.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div>
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It would've been fun though. Ⓥ
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<br />vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-69241396601965764712013-06-07T23:00:00.002-07:002013-06-07T23:00:08.185-07:00Long reach nail punch<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi70PNjotlpgAbzykZN5M7vNNejW5pqBePtICyU8RAYJYTgqvWbxUIHa47q8YArfJXvX1hqbuRuKfUbtnh1dAeJ4zUjNRchR81WQNAomu8qZ19Fo8V3fV6ZNkhyGhLCZm7Y85e_hjQQ1coQWf9D/s1600/2012-10-25+21.16.07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi70PNjotlpgAbzykZN5M7vNNejW5pqBePtICyU8RAYJYTgqvWbxUIHa47q8YArfJXvX1hqbuRuKfUbtnh1dAeJ4zUjNRchR81WQNAomu8qZ19Fo8V3fV6ZNkhyGhLCZm7Y85e_hjQQ1coQWf9D/s320/2012-10-25+21.16.07.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Just a little something I knocked up from a 6", sorry, 150mm nail and a piece of aluminium tube. The point of the nail is ground off and notched to engage with a smaller jolt nail head, and the aluminium sleeve keeps it on target when you whack the nail into otherwise unreachable places. The sleeve still slides a bit, so you can thump the nail all the way home and the sleeve obligingly moves out of the way.vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-21017464284927360872013-05-24T15:46:00.002-07:002013-05-24T15:56:36.589-07:00PLA Filament Ear PlugI've got an ear piercing that needs a reasonably-sized plug in it, and I thought I'd use my own company's PLA 3D printer filament to make one. So I took a few samples of 3mm PLA (just hit <a href="http://diamondage.co.nz/" target="_blank">Diamond Age</a> up for freebies folks!), held them lined up in my fingers, and applied a small blowtorch flame to the free ends to soften them. When they went soft, I squeeze them together and they weld nicely. When you get the temperature right, it welds to itself into a glorious technicolour ribbon, not to your fingertips - practice and keep a bowl of nice, icy cold water handy!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM32FqOmKa1lEZJ2o3PJhJ8Ss-G4m9ZsQUAyBCDLMNUATs41t8-_zZhhDjSaR4hzFyzzI63ZVGRht2OBcACmdQhBviV5jLyOy7fpaPAgP8tOvODdpcwGcDK9AZZUSk4PieLDwJ4sCNeB2cM1_m/s1600/2013-05-25+10.32.49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM32FqOmKa1lEZJ2o3PJhJ8Ss-G4m9ZsQUAyBCDLMNUATs41t8-_zZhhDjSaR4hzFyzzI63ZVGRht2OBcACmdQhBviV5jLyOy7fpaPAgP8tOvODdpcwGcDK9AZZUSk4PieLDwJ4sCNeB2cM1_m/s320/2013-05-25+10.32.49.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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When warmed and soft, the PLA ribbon can be cut with scissors, wrapped around paintbrush handles, squished against flat glass surfaces etc. and generally worked over. So now I can make ear plugs of whatever size I need, depending on how my piercings stretch out.<br />
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I've been wearing a cruder version for a month, and the PLA has
shown no sign at all of degradation when worn against my skin, so
premature biodegrading is not an issue . In fact, the PLA plug is cleaner and my ear more comfortable than the titanium plug in the other ear. I'm wondering what else I can make with it. Ⓥvik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-66116002179121660332013-05-23T23:10:00.000-07:002013-05-23T23:18:44.286-07:00Lab StandsEver needed lab stands and been unable to nick them from a convenient lab? Well, I need some for propping up photography backdrops, holding hot stuff while it cools, and keeping the bits of the good ol' moonshine still in place. Plus it makes the place look more like Dr. Frankenstein's laboratory and boosts geek cred.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiFfZBbiM63XrKYOqlbrip-fijJH-I6GYMLtvQiYgjrpjPrpJe-s5w1Slrp2DArVQwWKyjPAIRptANmio2ESdrQj0sz3LZzasiToG3Z6sgAVpm_vl0Fod5sci6d00SA0QYGNE2SavnRT91dhR1/s1600/2013-05-24+17.57.52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiFfZBbiM63XrKYOqlbrip-fijJH-I6GYMLtvQiYgjrpjPrpJe-s5w1Slrp2DArVQwWKyjPAIRptANmio2ESdrQj0sz3LZzasiToG3Z6sgAVpm_vl0Fod5sci6d00SA0QYGNE2SavnRT91dhR1/s320/2013-05-24+17.57.52.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Anyhow, simple solution: Take a 700mm length of 12mm aluminium tube, roughen up one end with a hacksaw, and stick it in a takeaway curry tub full of concrete. It helps to wave a spirit level next to the pole to keep it straight, and if you haven't got a handy lab stand to keep the pole in place with, just tape it to the edge of a table temporarily and put the tub under it on the floor.<br />
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For the clamps, I bend 25mmx2mm (1" x 3/32" in old money) aluminium strip into a "U" around a bolt in the vise, pack the arms of the "U" with scrap wood, and drill an 8mm hole through the lot. Remove "U", slide a piece of M8 threaded rod through the holes and add 2x M8 butterfly nuts and 2x M8 washers to make an adjustable arm. Wire your favourite clamp or wooden clothes peg to the free end of it, or just use tape for non-heated jobs.<br />
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Geek away. Ⓥ
vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-77257112370983184212013-05-21T21:18:00.001-07:002013-05-21T21:48:08.176-07:00Spray Booth<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC21nvdorN_3dHu8EmWGxoeXVd0ByiUGT1cAoSbQCCzU0iLF801DxboRFNqtXyQ8sp8LhrBNP7EYAPWUDnSTZQmtQ6ACo2tK0UdjBIrUWgVUyVjDPcq4UoqBfdZrjTA4lhSDOUFACOupvwFjXS/s1600/spray_booth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC21nvdorN_3dHu8EmWGxoeXVd0ByiUGT1cAoSbQCCzU0iLF801DxboRFNqtXyQ8sp8LhrBNP7EYAPWUDnSTZQmtQ6ACo2tK0UdjBIrUWgVUyVjDPcq4UoqBfdZrjTA4lhSDOUFACOupvwFjXS/s320/spray_booth.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suspended spray booth</td></tr>
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Welcome back, long time no write. I have a new workshop in Henderson, but it had no spray booth. But with a little help from my friends, we fixed that. We made a square with four 1.5m long pieces of 15mm electrical conduit held at the corners with 90 degree elbows. So we could reuse things later, we put small woodscrews into the elbows to hold them together rather than using PVC adhesive.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgstp44zKZM0eoL6SXA0kZ9MGk5eQV9mQF4PcbSuvc5suGPpCvIIVGUGr3hyphenhyphenXIjRCH_g1pFyQSZv2zxYFJlrVjqEwyCZBXHPXKapuWNbnIwaloJKGvhblilq5Gfx5OMaTyrDW7uasyyu9jmS4k0/s1600/booth_plan.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgstp44zKZM0eoL6SXA0kZ9MGk5eQV9mQF4PcbSuvc5suGPpCvIIVGUGr3hyphenhyphenXIjRCH_g1pFyQSZv2zxYFJlrVjqEwyCZBXHPXKapuWNbnIwaloJKGvhblilq5Gfx5OMaTyrDW7uasyyu9jmS4k0/s320/booth_plan.png" width="256" /></a></div>
Two pipe saddles hold the square onto the wall by one side so that it can hinge up and down. We actually used M3 spacers to hold the saddles off a little to allow enough room for the pipe to rotate smoothly. Rather than screwing direct to the wall, we screwed into chunks of 2x4 which were then screwed to the wall, or rather a crossbeam at the bottom of an overhead partition wall.<br />
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Net result, the square can be folded up against the wall. This is a bit of a reach, so we fastened a couple of eyes waaay up the wall, put cords through them, and tied one end to each of the "free" corners of the square. By anchoring the other end to handy screws in thew wall, we can lower the square until it is horizontal and tie it off.<br />
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A few polythene drop-sheets were then secured to the square frame with clear packing tape, like a shower curtain. One split left for the entrance, of course! A diagonal piece of pipe held across the square with cable ties gives a handy thing to dangle spray victims from on long wire hooks.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-w5RNmiey_spSz0qSQjdagAyIIxLxUDL_CBlu3MBhAibgowZJIjxEAZBWZH73COf_ySV7fGbNqJ1H18k4ksDmz6sJ724LBN_sKXTKYwVIamI4exLI0EE3YcSYvkoodNdGASqS6x2FbugCtQTa/s1600/2013-05-22+16.08.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-w5RNmiey_spSz0qSQjdagAyIIxLxUDL_CBlu3MBhAibgowZJIjxEAZBWZH73COf_ySV7fGbNqJ1H18k4ksDmz6sJ724LBN_sKXTKYwVIamI4exLI0EE3YcSYvkoodNdGASqS6x2FbugCtQTa/s320/2013-05-22+16.08.35.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The floor underneath is protected by an old duvet cover. Some 2x4 offcuts strategically placed around the edges of the drop-sheets stop them from billowing up when the spray gun is used. Seems to work just fine!<br />
<br />vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-65455968267556198862012-08-09T03:52:00.000-07:002012-08-09T04:55:04.050-07:00Quick update now before I go to bed: the red bits are now on Patches - assembly by mallet is so satisfying! - and I had to redo the Y bed to centralise the drive shaft more. There is also one more 608 to further constrain the left-hand Y rail. The right hand one remains relatively lightly guided.<br />
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I've got the switches mechanically located and functioning, though the Y bed motor bracket needs a protrusion on it to strategically poke the switch with. I just free-welded some PLA into place by hand and I'll update the files later.<br />
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If I run in to an unsolvable problem with even-sided drive on the bed, I can simply duplicate the Z axis drive components and run two drive rods. It's tempting but I want to go really minimal for this build.<br />
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The mounting bracket for the stepper drivers needs designing, but that'll be an integral component of the Arduino mounting backboard. There will also be a patch-pad holder for discrete components. This one is designed not to have a custom PCB, and to be ultra accessible. Replacing or substituting components will be a relatively simple process with no soldering. I hope.<br />
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Vik :v)vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-2509250444199144092012-07-15T16:13:00.000-07:002012-07-15T19:08:27.114-07:00Patches Sees Red<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZwyz8V6bVhH8MZEWGgwv3Uu97EojlmAF0OpVFWLBe0LqqIu12z4a4tYsFg4Olqd3_FY_pE5rVHTr2N7IENUoNFlk9jSdbjXD9pBwhFC1xjnR4YwDbcK43NPSVztASM44qO4rhdEmqe5zPA0r/s1600/20120716_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZwyz8V6bVhH8MZEWGgwv3Uu97EojlmAF0OpVFWLBe0LqqIu12z4a4tYsFg4Olqd3_FY_pE5rVHTr2N7IENUoNFlk9jSdbjXD9pBwhFC1xjnR4YwDbcK43NPSVztASM44qO4rhdEmqe5zPA0r/s320/20120716_001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I'm printing in our nice, new batch of Cherry Red, so Patches is in for another colour change. For the moment, the red bits are sitting there pending a teardown. Note that the new X bearings are far more accessible and I've added malleting points to protect the bearing holders.<br />
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Those purple corners are due for a redesign. They need to be able to screw to a baseboard (skips all 4 metal rods at the bottom if you do that, but needs 8 screws) and I am planning on mounting the Arduino Mega clone (NZ$65 from yours truly:) on the one in the left of the photo.<br />
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There are a few minor fixes that I won't bother re-printing, but not much so I hope to be able to release the files for public ridicule next week.<br />
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Oh, the Z motor tested successfully! Now on to the Y. I might need to redo the edges of the bevel gears but I think I'll get away with it for now.<br />
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Excluding gears (10) and the extruder there are 14 printed parts to the Simpleton design.<br />
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Oh blast! Forgot to add the cavity for the Y limit switch!vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-87080676003503787782012-07-08T17:15:00.002-07:002012-07-08T17:19:36.739-07:00It's just a matter of firmware...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbR66rmwi9zaNbaOIGB0Gty_mIuqVS01XhO-RHlxoJyj-lzIo3ME_rscCrL2iWJIIKcRXjz6WYAMth7B3qXtEtFBJIgiV-Bt-GxXrZ3cByRj4znrphjXXdVxpRfwjxntYGpNZZGvFuXofwhtC6/s1600/2012-07-09+11.57.49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbR66rmwi9zaNbaOIGB0Gty_mIuqVS01XhO-RHlxoJyj-lzIo3ME_rscCrL2iWJIIKcRXjz6WYAMth7B3qXtEtFBJIgiV-Bt-GxXrZ3cByRj4znrphjXXdVxpRfwjxntYGpNZZGvFuXofwhtC6/s320/2012-07-09+11.57.49.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The "Simpleton" RepRap design continues apace. Now I have the snap-on X carriage figured out and enough pieces in place to wire up the electronics. A few things to sort out still: Some access to nuts is too tricky, the bed corners bump into the endstops a bit early as does the Z axis, the Y captive nut is wrong, and the access to the X drive rod bearings is going to need to be redone.<br />
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Still, as it sits on the bench it does a 210mmx190mmx170mm build envelope and weighs 3.6kg, so I haven't lost too much space or gained much weight. Time to start the finer details like built-in cable management and proper endstop holders.<br />
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Quite proud of the little CNC-mill-like handles to manually adjust X & Y :)vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-74663947919703931762012-06-26T18:10:00.000-07:002012-06-26T18:10:42.093-07:00Simpleton DimensionsOkay, first data points on the Simpleton design:<br />
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200mm x 200mm x 200mm working volume, give or take.<br />
400mm x 400mm desk footprint, but does want to drop over the edge a bit.<br />
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Tests with an electric drill, while frankly terrifying, confirmed that things will rotate in a stable manner at speed. I'm only expecting to see 20mm/s out of this, which is nigh on 1,000RPM for the M8 shaft, though only about 300RPM for the actual stepper motor. For comparison, a Mendel X axis is typically doing about 100RPM.<br />
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This all dictates that I'm going to need an Arduino Mega to flip the steps fast enough, and that I'll not be doing much in the way of micro-stepping. This is cool: It raises the possibility of cheap and simple stepper motor drivers for those building "in the wild."<br />
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No pictures today as the thing is in bits: I'm replacing the Z motor corner. The only screws involved are the ones that screw in to the Z motor itself. The rest is done by mallet. Hammerrrrrrr!vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-10981960816162011512012-06-10T17:00:00.001-07:002012-06-10T17:00:49.908-07:00"Patches" is born<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicRXstmOAn2naJst5m8ci9DsTq1LOxeAwe7-YV4j0ELrF27DSB6seeSQQPtJbb2Cgq_An-C32HgfHQlkqxl1qyD-BGkU-R31GKSI5BVaeYBayQuqeQum99OkqGrGr4SddRxS0s-wlc99tc4RCx/s1600/20120611_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicRXstmOAn2naJst5m8ci9DsTq1LOxeAwe7-YV4j0ELrF27DSB6seeSQQPtJbb2Cgq_An-C32HgfHQlkqxl1qyD-BGkU-R31GKSI5BVaeYBayQuqeQum99OkqGrGr4SddRxS0s-wlc99tc4RCx/s320/20120611_001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So the Simpleton design is progressing. Suz named it "Patches" after the wide variety of colours that seem to have become integrated with it.<br />
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In short, it's all coming together. The lower bearings for the Z drive screws are out of position by 10mm and the platform still raises and lowers smoothly, which bodes well for when I get it right.<br />
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The bearing brackets on the transverse drive shaft are a bit flimsy, the wall that the Z motor is mounted on has an unwanted beam in it, and the motor that slides the deposition bed back and forth is about 20mm too low. A few more parts can be integrated and fasteners removed when I get the positioning finalised. No show stoppers though.<br />
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In about a month there should be some design files worth sharing with the world.vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-70136296640280505982012-06-05T14:55:00.000-07:002012-06-05T14:55:25.046-07:00Back to R&D, phew!<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxvZEDVOOXAI6ftuDuXwsaCSN12-Yu5KvlmURAm8n2-9npAeelJwkYXsE0Lz90zwMOF9ibkbdjUa3nOwj1YP220TD2ngioK0-I5zPjPGovV3H4FPzq4gP9ZAnIaoDcYP85WIUTfqfq57UOw5sH/s1600/20120606_002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxvZEDVOOXAI6ftuDuXwsaCSN12-Yu5KvlmURAm8n2-9npAeelJwkYXsE0Lz90zwMOF9ibkbdjUa3nOwj1YP220TD2ngioK0-I5zPjPGovV3H4FPzq4gP9ZAnIaoDcYP85WIUTfqfq57UOw5sH/s320/20120606_002.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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Finally got to spend some more time working on my new RepRap design, so I guess I owe people a picture. We've been busy reorganising our business, looking for new premises, increasing our production volumes of PLA at <a href="http://diamondage.co.nz/">Diamond Age Solutions</a> and developing new stock. Anyhow, thanks to Her Majesty giving me an extra day off, The Simpleton design is now back on track.<br />
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As you can see, I'm opting for bevel gears to drive a cantilevered Z axis that in turn supports a cantilevered Y bed. The smooth tubing is all extruded aluminium, and both Z and Y axes have 608 bearings. Nothing is yet in its final place, and I still haven't designed the actual Y bed, but this baby is going to turn heads when she's done.
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Yes I am using rather a lot of threaded rod still - it's the material for the job and because of the cantilevering I actually want a bit of weight in places. But there are a lot of places where the lighter aluminium tube can be used, and a few where it can be replaced with lengths of bamboo or whatever you have handy!vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-8085996430136821002012-01-12T14:34:00.000-08:002012-02-07T10:59:55.159-08:00New Filament Shelving<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh41PPlheWEA6szZDYBTzQpOSjuBz9J2QzHpRUrVwEmnoIwt312bNlx3PWoi2LN7BsV42U3vd60qc34txQ9sS1tGdvM0Qncg791f6XlmfkbjwhyphenhyphenA1VHr2_AZDDGfpYMOROAEql9JoJ0x9XYv1YE/s1600/2012-01-11+13.05.29.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh41PPlheWEA6szZDYBTzQpOSjuBz9J2QzHpRUrVwEmnoIwt312bNlx3PWoi2LN7BsV42U3vd60qc34txQ9sS1tGdvM0Qncg791f6XlmfkbjwhyphenhyphenA1VHr2_AZDDGfpYMOROAEql9JoJ0x9XYv1YE/s320/2012-01-11+13.05.29.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5696877987049617250" /></a><br />I built some shelves from my most despised construction material: MDF. The plan was designed to produce the shelving unit from a single 2440x1220mm sheet and seems to hold together OK with panel pins and PVA. I'll need at least another two shelving units to hold the rest of the PLA and ABS stock though.<br /><br />The plan is to put webcams on the shelving and then people can see exactly what <A HREF="http://diamondage.geekofarm.com">Diamond Age Solutions Ltd.</A> has in stock at any time. So can I, which makes re-ordering easy.<br /><br />If anyone wants a copy of the plans, pipe up.vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-77906123455867866582011-11-07T21:03:00.000-08:002011-11-07T21:16:21.508-08:00RepRap designI've made a few parts and tried them for fit. The frame seems to basically hold together, so I'm moving on to designing some of the Y/Z axis. I really ought to do something about those simple little brackets on the end of the bracers, 'cos that won't fly in the final version...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpxqwnk0YG6X-A4yIpV1sYdZv9C1mA3gjreIWWX1eNdiv32OFC2EUSsClP3LuQJVPOv-wcwFsMuvomk1pavnQzrHJbyv8yAyFBiyEdhD9qbzNl1kXiqL_UnKjJr56b9nENAdEyENCwcaHNSBkA/s1600/frame_layout3.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 255px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpxqwnk0YG6X-A4yIpV1sYdZv9C1mA3gjreIWWX1eNdiv32OFC2EUSsClP3LuQJVPOv-wcwFsMuvomk1pavnQzrHJbyv8yAyFBiyEdhD9qbzNl1kXiqL_UnKjJr56b9nENAdEyENCwcaHNSBkA/s320/frame_layout3.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672487986302764850" /></a><br /><br />Also been working on the new Diamond Age website upgrade, assisted by Ania.vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-6540310722635329692011-11-06T13:43:00.000-08:002011-11-06T14:04:41.847-08:00How To Make RepRap Nozzles<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh3NvAyQXB2RFAGAPlHjDW4nmqRKsOcsS9OYJrgXtLgF9m3uTTJ_hSBy_2uL7RPq2m7Twnaz5ClQgzNaE2bKJCES4qkBmgycGxzA42aspL6QU2jghA6ghoePoYYhQ-T_MuzDPo39CNphegUxcb/s1600/2011-10-21+20.09.51.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh3NvAyQXB2RFAGAPlHjDW4nmqRKsOcsS9OYJrgXtLgF9m3uTTJ_hSBy_2uL7RPq2m7Twnaz5ClQgzNaE2bKJCES4qkBmgycGxzA42aspL6QU2jghA6ghoePoYYhQ-T_MuzDPo39CNphegUxcb/s320/2011-10-21+20.09.51.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672002646018660450" /></a><br />The above is the crib sheet I use for making an extruder. The ingredients are: 18mm PTFE rod (can be whatever), 18mm SS hose clamp, 45mm M6 brass bolt, M6 brass dome nut (can be plated), 4 Ohms of nichrome wire, 100k thermistor, slightly diluted fire cement or fireproof rope cement from the solid fuel supplies house and PTFE "thread seal" tape.<br /><br />Basically, you make it look like this:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXCvZ2D3vsvRCgqthJronLTYAlbXqMozIaJCebd0uvyKCgQtnedWfZ4ydWvWiKWYOMZS1Taqn-CSYvovgXPjXnw-uzxakdii0jnYoa15V72V97CyuwpOCcaIADAoVecj4xhd5K5iuYILCiFAOR/s1600/2011-10-28+13.54.57.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXCvZ2D3vsvRCgqthJronLTYAlbXqMozIaJCebd0uvyKCgQtnedWfZ4ydWvWiKWYOMZS1Taqn-CSYvovgXPjXnw-uzxakdii0jnYoa15V72V97CyuwpOCcaIADAoVecj4xhd5K5iuYILCiFAOR/s320/2011-10-28+13.54.57.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5672004181666901106" /></a><br /><br />I'll add pertinent details as people ask awkward questions. Or I sell them for NZ$55 and ship worldwide :)<br /><br />The main issue people have with PLA extruders is that they leak where the brass barrel screws in to the PLA. There are many complex machining options, but the easiest is to wrap the barrel with PTFE tape, screw it in, and then add a heavy stainless steel hose clamp over the join. That holds it!vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-24679367455988060622011-11-06T00:32:00.001-07:002011-11-06T00:45:08.972-07:00New RepRap Under Construction<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-v9mfCp-mYYmPm3Gxdr8TVI6RDzmfD2q_1r1-OJN3YlAdF8D0CZB-Ve7YEuExRXFogcE4Ca-zaVy_oWjgKmkF-IU5-MMoliKbDxo1fEZgcyXMVeVhhctvp32unqnWQXRByUz5rFf2THjTp6j3/s1600/frame_layout2.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 253px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-v9mfCp-mYYmPm3Gxdr8TVI6RDzmfD2q_1r1-OJN3YlAdF8D0CZB-Ve7YEuExRXFogcE4Ca-zaVy_oWjgKmkF-IU5-MMoliKbDxo1fEZgcyXMVeVhhctvp32unqnWQXRByUz5rFf2THjTp6j3/s320/frame_layout2.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5671782900920139634" /></a><br />The new design moved from virtual to real world over the weekend. I found longer sockets are going to be needed, and you really need to avoid having the layers print along the length of the sockets. Still, a mock-up is starting to take shape in the workshop.<br /><br />The Z axis is looking like being even more unusual than I'd originally anticipated. But simple. Very simple. The drive mechanism isn't on the plans yet...<br /><br />The X carriage sits on the top 2 rails. It's my one-piece design: <A HREF="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9385">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9385<br /><img src="http://thingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/97/ad/68/08/bd/xtruder_preview_large.jpg"><br /></a>vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-77622772391670033552011-11-04T12:44:00.000-07:002011-11-04T12:49:44.981-07:00The Vik Has Cleared The Tower<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgET0oMXk8Cq0JIw7xQQXbsvz0kEBfXoynD2nHWemggbjZnhysZFnQAzKhgDfEoaNqeLyXIFzFM9ee9VYAcDYNnHor6gJ_PhH-8fH5Cw5tmkrQzAdnzu0PvfDcm96bNqSnsKsHGobHMcDcq7j2U/s1600/frame_layout.png"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 292px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgET0oMXk8Cq0JIw7xQQXbsvz0kEBfXoynD2nHWemggbjZnhysZFnQAzKhgDfEoaNqeLyXIFzFM9ee9VYAcDYNnHor6gJ_PhH-8fH5Cw5tmkrQzAdnzu0PvfDcm96bNqSnsKsHGobHMcDcq7j2U/s320/frame_layout.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5671229744220648962" /></a><br />Due to pressures of work and family, I've had to make a tough decision in a real hurry. Consequently I'm now my own boss, Diamond Age is now a full-time RepRap company, and I get to finish off my exciting new RepRap design. Not all details are ready for public release as I don't want to have an embarrassing climbdown. However, I can give you a picture of the tubular frame layout as a teaser :) Build area (red) is [180,220,180]mmvik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6757261993703476074.post-65222251369365990622011-04-01T03:39:00.000-07:002011-04-01T19:33:07.060-07:00Bronze Age ArrivesWith help from Ben, I've fired up my forge again and smelted some bronze. The Winter is coming in these parts, and the surrounding bush is now sufficiently damp for me to not worry about setting it all on fire. Just to make sure we're now sporting a spark arrestor. This year the forge has a 110mm centrifugal 12V blower that I printed myself on the RepRap:<br /><br /><A HREF="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7350"><IMG SRC="http://thingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/02/7e/7c/ce/82/20110327_002_preview_medium.jpg" align=center></A><br /><br />The blower is in turn powered by a car battery with a dead cell, charged from a 5W solar panel strapped to the awning. I just drilled 4mm holes into the battery terminals and use 4mm banana plugs for everything. As a bonus, I can plug in a LED spotlight which lights up my nocturnal smithing activities.<br /><br />The flowerpot used as the forge's firebowl has fragmented, but it was far too deep anyway. Time to spend another few bucks at the garden centre and get a more bowl-like flowerpot. But we're back working metal again, and this makes Winters bearable for me!<br /><br />I hope to cast bronze in plaster moulds made from RepRap'd cores, but for this test we just cast it into a crude charcoal mould.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXf0EaT9DL_36AePjxniRk8WwliqnubDFc0jDPuDJSGkEB-2LkL6MJcN6PoKISImwtDWmFCRfDuF-gyt8UmBFxfA1F-_uBAu1EyN9gjqvjjefqQZ0rEkt7uOrZP7B5e_OL3eJWRYvg3jE4ufnx/s1600/20110402_004.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXf0EaT9DL_36AePjxniRk8WwliqnubDFc0jDPuDJSGkEB-2LkL6MJcN6PoKISImwtDWmFCRfDuF-gyt8UmBFxfA1F-_uBAu1EyN9gjqvjjefqQZ0rEkt7uOrZP7B5e_OL3eJWRYvg3jE4ufnx/s320/20110402_004.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5590808335940092530" /></a>vik-olliverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14574212494833831824noreply@blogger.com0